How Thick Are Zellige Tiles? (And Why It Matters for Your Installation)
If you're planning a zellige tile project, thickness is one of the first things you need to understand — because zellige doesn't behave like the ceramic or porcelain tile most US contractors are used to.
Here's everything you need to know before your installer shows up.
Quick Answer: How Thick Are Zellige Tiles?
Zellige tiles are typically 3/8" to 3/4" thick (10mm–18mm), with most pieces landing around 1/2" (12–15mm).
For comparison, standard ceramic wall tile is usually about 1/4" (6–8mm) thick. So zellige is roughly twice as thick as what most tile setters work with every day.
But here's the key thing: not every zellige tile is the same thickness. Within a single order, you'll see a variation of 1/8" to 3/16" (3–5mm) from tile to tile. That's not a defect — it's exactly how authentic zellige is made.
Why Is Zellige Tile Thickness Uneven?
Zellige tiles are hand-cut in Morocco by craftsmen called maalems. They chip each tile individually from a larger fired clay slab using a small hammer and chisel. There's no machine punching out perfectly uniform pieces.
That hand-cut process is what creates the wavy, light-catching surface that makes zellige so distinctive. The thickness variation is part of the same story — it's a feature, not a flaw.
Why Thickness Variation Matters for Installation
This is where US homeowners and contractors run into the most surprises. Zellige installs differently than rectified porcelain, and if your tile setter doesn't know that going in, it can cause real problems.
Here's what changes:
1. Each Tile Needs to Be Back-Buttered
With uniform tiles, an installer spreads adhesive on the substrate with a notched trowel and presses tiles in. That approach doesn't work with zellige.
Because each tile is a slightly different thickness, your installer needs to back-butter every single tile — applying adhesive directly to the back of each piece and adjusting the amount to compensate for thinner or thicker tiles. It's slower, it's more labor-intensive, and it costs more. Get a quote from someone who knows this upfront.
Ask before you hire: "Have you installed handmade or Moroccan tiles before?" If they haven't, it doesn't disqualify them — but you'll want to walk through the process together.
2. Some Lippage Is Normal (and Expected)
Lippage is when the edge of one tile sits slightly higher than the tile next to it. With machine-cut tile, lippage is a mistake. With zellige, a little lippage is part of the look — it's what gives an installation that organic, handcrafted feel.
- On walls: 1/16" to 1/8" (1–2mm) of lippage is perfectly acceptable
- On floors: Keep it tighter — too much lippage on a floor becomes a trip hazard
3. Your Substrate Has to Be Solid
Zellige tiles are heavier than standard tile. Any flex or bounce in the substrate will telegraph through — causing tiles to crack or pop off over time.
For walls:
- Cement board is ideal
- Well-prepped plaster works
- Avoid drywall in wet areas (bathrooms, kitchens)
For floors:
- Concrete slab is best
- Cement board over a stiff subfloor works well
- Make sure everything is fully cured before tiling
4. Use Wider Grout Joints
Zellige tiles vary slightly in face size, not just thickness. To accommodate that, use a 3/16" to 1/4" grout joint (roughly 5–6mm). This is wider than what you'd use with rectified porcelain, but it looks right with zellige and makes installation much more forgiving.
Tight grout joints don't suit the handmade aesthetic anyway — they make zellige look stiff and factory-made.
What Adhesive Should You Use for Zellige Tile?
Skip basic white tile mastic. For zellige, you need a polymer-modified thin-set mortar — sometimes labeled as "large and heavy tile" mortar or "medium bed" mortar at US tile supply stores.
This type of adhesive has:
- Stronger bond strength (needed for the extra weight)
- A degree of flexibility (helps handle minor substrate movement)
- Better coverage for back-buttering uneven tiles
For wet areas (showers, backsplashes, bathroom floors): make sure both your thin-set and your grout are rated for continuous moisture exposure.
Does Thickness Matter for Floors vs. Walls?
Yes — slightly.
For walls, any thickness in the 3/8"–3/4" range is fine. Walls don't bear load from the tile, so weight is mostly a substrate and adhesive question.
For floors, aim for tiles at the thicker end — at least 1/2" (12–15mm). Thinner pieces are more likely to crack under point loads (chair legs, dropped objects, heavy foot traffic). If you're ordering specifically for a floor project, let us know — we'll make sure you get appropriately thick pieces.
Zellige has been used on floors in Moroccan riads and hammams for centuries. It holds up beautifully — it just needs the right prep.
What About Bejmat Tiles?
Bejmat tiles — the long, rectangular Moroccan tile format — follow the same thickness rules. They're also hand-cut from fired clay and carry the same natural variation.
Bejmat are traditionally a floor tile and are often cut from thicker clay slabs, making them a great choice if you want zellige's look underfoot with added durability.
Tell Your Installer These 6 Things
Print this out or screenshot it before your installer arrives:
- Thickness varies 1/8"–3/16" per tile — this is normal, not a defect
- Back-butter every tile individually — do not rely on a flat adhesive bed alone
- Use polymer-modified thin-set (large/heavy tile formula), not mastic
- Grout joints: 3/16" to 1/4" — wider than rectified tile
- Some lippage is expected — for floors, keep it under 1/16"
- Substrate must be flat, solid, and fully cured before starting
An experienced installer will handle all of this without issue. The key is making sure they know what they're working with before they start — not after the first row is down.